Many have asked, “Why hike?”
Is it the thrill of meandering through nature, concurring a landscape, or rediscovering ancient paths? We all have a reason why we take on a trail. For me, it is an exploration of little finds, whether studying a flower, tracking a creature, admiring a rock formation, or scrutinising a historical find. It appeals to my inquisitive nature and is a happy place for my soul.
This brings me to the word “Camino”, normally associated with a planned journey or path that needs to be completed for one’s inner self. You choose the setting, the landscape, and the time. And then there are a few other factors you need to consider, like being walking fit, having the right equipment, and the company you would like to keep.
With this all being said. I would like to introduce you to the Kammanassie Camino.
This one is for the Route seeker, the hiker who likes to find unexplored destinations. The Kammanassie mountain range, “Mountain of Water,” is a tick box for many. This piece of earth lies between the Swartberg Mountain range, to the north of de Rust, and the Outeniqua Mountain range, to the south of the Langkloof. With its large floral & fauna diversity, it is included in the World Heritage Site, which forms part of the Gouritz Cluster Biosphere Reserve.
Our starting point is outside the small town of de Rust, on the foothills of the Kammanassie mountain range and features pristine Klein Karoo veld, open plains, acacia forests, and deep green kloofs.
Let’s talk accommodation:
On arrival at our accommodation, I was greeted by the larger-than-life Bernard Delport, owner of the Kammanassie Camino and our guide for the next couple of days. The comfort level of his warm personality immediately made me feel at home. Once I was settled in, I took the time to browse around and look at the different futures of the camp.
The Kammanassie Blue Bush Camp is a settlement on the foothills of Kammanassie. I would call it luxury rustic, which means it is a comfortable million-star accommodation establishment. It has all the bells and whistles you need without frivolous amenities. Solar, Wi-Fi, hot and cold running water, a large kitchen (fully equipped) that is shared, comfortable beds, and a boma with a fire pit. There are 3 rooms with 2 single beds and the bathroom for these is an ablution block with 2 toilets and 2 showers. It is nothing fancy, but the water is hot, the towels are large and lovely, and they have a spectacular view of the valley. Bonus!! (The cottages are separate from the accommodation I stayed in and are an option)
It is likely the most comfortable bush camp I have stayed at. The evening was spent around the fire accompanied by light discussions and loads of banter. We ate our fill of good old-fashioned comfort food before tucking ourselves into bed and setting the alarm for 6.30 am.
The morning arrived with scattered clouds breaking up the dusky sky, a promise of a good day. The Route of Ruins was our scheduled, a 13.5 km circular route that winds through the Kammanassie Nature Reserve. I watched my fellow hikers pile into the kitchen of the boma area in search of the miracle drink, liquid Java (coffee) they slowly packed their day packs, snacking and chatting while their excitement grew.
At the start of the walk, we were greeted by aloe soldiers saluting the snowcapped peaks of the Swartberg mountains from their low-lying hilltop. The gentle slopes of this landscape are easy on the body and lend to a contented walk. Everyone was in high spirits and the chattering crowd was indeed vibey. My eyes flowed over the veld and rock formations, every now and then I heard the familiar sound of a karoo prinia clicking its way through underlying bushes, I observed the butterflies and bugs that visited the veld flowers and high above me I heard the familiar cry of the Jackle Buzzard seeking his next thermal. It was perfect.
The first stop was the dam wall
The first stop was the dam with its stacked wall of stone, it kept our minds busy as we contemplated who could have built it? The work, though old, was beautifully done.
It could have quite possibly been the Italian POWs who were sent here from North Africa during World War II. There were thought to be about 93,000 Italian Prisoners of War in South Africa and these men were stationed in camps throughout the country. We also know that most of the Italians who were sent formed friendships with farmers and returned after the war. But for now, it is still a mystery for us to uncover.
Refreshed, and relaxed it was time to take on the next part of the walk, heading for the bend, and our turning point. This was possibly the most intriguing part of this hike. There among the shrubbery in the kloof stood a stacked wall, and our lunch stop for the route of ruins, and appropriately so. Some of my fellow hikers scaled the wall for a better view, others found a few water pools to cool down in or sought the shade of the trees.
I carefully studied the wall with its puzzle of multiple rocks placed with such precision and thought. Nostalgic at the idea of something so beautifully created here among the mountain folds, far from everything it seemed. But who knew the history that dwelled here?
Our casual picnic lunch among the ruins ended and it was time to head back. The next small loop guided us in a slightly different direction before we retraced our steps and headed back to base camp.
With absolute delight, we removed the restraints of our hiking shoes, stretched out our cramped toes, filled our glasses with tall cooldrinks and relaxed. The rest of the afternoon was spent as downtime, a good snooze was on the cards before rejoining the chatting group in the boma area. The nursing of a few blisters and an odd hiking story was shared before night eventually descended over the Klein Karoo. The fire was lit and the aromas of South African cooking drifted under the noses of the hungry crowd. When our appetites were contented with, and stars filled the night sky with its Milky Way highway of celestial detail the tired bodies dissipated into surroundings to seek out their beds and rest. Tomorrow is another day…
The Kammannasie Camino is a 4-day and 3-night slack-packing hike in the scenic setting of the Kammannasie Mountain range. For information visit their website at: www.kammanassiecamino.co.za
Authors Note: Please be advised that I only did one day of the Kammannasie Camino due to fitness and injuries. But, as I said hikers are special people and they need to find their own time and space in places, this is such a place.
Hike well, hike safe, and keep the world at the “soul” of your feet.
GoTravelbug 